WHY SAGRES ?

WHY SAGRES ?

We came to Sagres by accident in 2007

We had never been to Portugal before

We bought an apartment in 2007

Since them it has never let us down

Its wild coast and  deserted beaches

Sunsets  fresh air

and clear blue skies . It has never failed to lift our moods.

THE MAP

THE MAP

MY SAGRES GUIDE

I am going to start with some Bar /Cafe and Restaurant information . I have avoided the word "review" on purpose , this is more a guide to whats there . You will come across all levels of service and prices , and there is no shortage of places to try .Some may appear uninviting at first ,they did for me when I first arrived but my advice is to give it ago, even if its only for a coffee or a cold beer . I am sure they need the business .Opening times vary but as a rule its 9 am till late , some close one day a week . Its usually Monday for restaurants , and some restaurants will close altogether in low season . You will however find somewhere open from very early in the morning till very late at night , and opening times will be on the door.By the way PUXE means PULL. Due to the economic climate places close and new ones open up on a regular basis .

Ancora bar now closed unfortunately 

SNACK BAR OLIVEIRINHA (small olive tree) NO 1 (TOUR 1 )

THIS IS TOUR NO. 1 IT COVERS  6 ESTABLISHMENTS AND GOES PRETTY MUCH IN A CIRCLE COVERING LARGE AREAS OF SAGRES .ITS A GOOD WAY TO GET YOUR BEARINGS  .THERE ARE PLENTY OF SHOPS AND OTHER CAFE'S TO TRY ALONG THE WAY .

SNACK BAR OLIVEIRINHA 

 Snack Bar Oliveirinha is at the entrance to Sagres . You honestly can't miss it , so its a great starting point .

This shot was taken early in the morning, but the chairs outside get the sun in the evening and it is a very pleasant spot for a beer/glass of wine or a coffee . It is a nice stop on an evening walk . There is a small bar/ coffee shop selling drinks and snacks on one side and a restaurant on the other . The bar advertises karaoke but I have never been . We went in the restaurant for lunch and it was busy with locals. The restaurant serves typical  Portuguese dishes . We were made very welcome and the service was good . I decided on the  Bacalhau  off the set menu, it was rather bony . I would go again but would try something else. It was very reasonably priced with the price including the bread and olive's starter , main course and desert plus a glass of wine . This set price is fairly common in the local restaurants but be warned what you get is what you get, its a set price for a set meal , if you start asking for extras you will probably be charged , and they will wonder why you ordered off the set price menu in the first place . The tourist restaurants are more expensive and generally you will be charged per course, unless a set price menu is advertised. If they place bread / olives and cheese on the table and you eat one piece of bread one olive and one slice of cheese you will be charged for it all separately . If you leave the cheese you will only be charged for the bread and olives . Eat none of it and they will take it away and you will not be charged . Get It ! My advice for Snack Bar Oliveirinha is to have a drink and a nosy and see what you think .

CAFE ZAMBUJO ( Casa da Moreia) NO 2 (TOUR 1)

CAFE ZAMBUJO

About 100 meters from the Oliveirinha is Cafe Zambujo , just head towards the center, take first left and you will see it . I looked up Zambujo and it is the name of a Portuguese Fado artist . Whether it is the name of the owner as well I don't know . I will ask him . Casa da Moreia is house of the Moray Eel , and yes they sell Moray Eels as a snack . In fact the whole place has a fishing theme and it opens very very early to serve the early morning fishermen . It is large and very clean inside , smoking is allowed as a ventilation system has been installed .Very few places allow smoking as I bet the cost of the system is high , but I imagine it is a very good selling point with the fishermen . It sells  snack's , I had a Bifana and a coffee. Traditionally the Portuguese drink a Bica which is basically an espresso. I find a Galao (Gallon) the best choice ,an espresso with milk usually in a glass.I have asked for a coffee with milk and got a Bica (tiny cup) and some milk . Not really what I wanted but its trial and error and part of the fun . I have only been in a couple of times but I think I will call again .

A CURVA CAFE NO 3 (TOUR 1)

        

A CURVA CAFE

Turn right and head up the hill on leaving Cafe Zambujo keep left at the first junction , pass the now closed Ancora Bar on the right and after the children's playground you will see A Curva Cafe on the curve of the junction . 

 Inside is a bit too 'local' for me but the outside area is a lovely spot and gets the sun as it sets at the end of the day . Its a nice place to watch people come and go .

SNACK BAR *A SEREIA * ( The Mermaid ) NO 4 (TOUR 1)

                                                     SNACK BAR *A SEREIA *

 So this is where we are heading next  . A bit of a walk from A Curva but easy to find.Exit A Curva turn left then right go  past the old Residencial building on the left ( please knock it down !) keep left at the roundabout and the road intersects the main high street of Sagres (Restaurante Carlos on the corner)Turn left at Restaurante Carlos and from the sharp right bend at the bottom of the road you will be able to see the harbour and Doca Pesca . Make your way to the harbour either by going down the steep steps or follow the road . The Porto/Doca  is signposted from Cafe A Curva by the way .

         For future reference if you turn right at Restaurante Carlos you will be heading down the main street past a strip of bars popular with surfers and it leads to a square at the top with more restaurants and cafe's . I doubt I will have time to go in them all but there are plenty of places to try . You may/will find it more expensive .

So here it is not an over spectacular cafe but it has a viewing area for the fish auction and I always visit this cafe to catch a glimpse of the different species of fish being sold, and to watch the boats come in .

Maybe allow plenty of time for visiting the harbour certainly if you like wandering onto jetties looking at boats and watching people work .

CAFE FLAMINGOS NO 5 (TOUR 1)

CAFE FLAMINGOS

Situated at the side of the Mercardo and near the Igreja ( Church) the Cafe Flamingos is my most frequently visited cafe . It is friendly ,cheap, has a lovely sun terrace , shaded during the heat of the day but gets the sun till it sets . Greet the locals with a smile and a Bom Dia / Boa Tarde or Boa Noite and more often than not it will be returned . As with most local Cafe's the clientele is mostly (not always) male but that's the way it is. Don't let it put you off. To get there retrace your steps from the harbour to Restaurante Carlos. Carry straight on up the high street till you reach the roundabout . Turn  right at the roundabout following signs for the Mercardo and the Igreja ,going past the Warung bar on the right (popular with surfers ). The Igreja is on the next roundabout and you will see Cafe Flamingo in front of you .    

ADEGA DOS ARCOS NO 6 (TOUR 1)

ADEGA DOS ARCOS

Behind Cafe Flamingos and the Mercado is some rough ground with various tracks going across it . Once you venture onto this land in the bottom left hand corner you will see the Adega Dos Arcos and it is easy to make your way there . If in doubt ask at the Flamingos . A few years ago this restaurante catered mainly for work men and it was not user friendly enough for tourists . No English spoken , no menu ,it was a pretty haphazard and crazy place . It was taken over by a experienced local guy , refurbished and as well as workmen locals and tourists started using it and it is now so popular in high season people are turned away . It can still be rather haphazard , I have not seen a menu . At lunch they have a Prato do Dia which is usually gone by evening then there is Chicken Fish or Pork . It opens at 7.30 pm for evening meals pick a quiet night they speak English and will have time to explain things . Its important to go with the flow its cheap and the food is good .

If you leave Adega dos Arcos by this exit or walk round the side ,turn right and at the junction turn left to go back to Oliveirinha or right for A Curva  . You should now be getting your bearings .

THE THREE BEACHES NO1 MARTINHAL (TOUR 2)

 This is Tour 2 and covers 3 beaches that are in easy walking distance from the centre of Sagres . Tour 1  covers most of the village and if followed will show  most of  the shops bars and eating places that are available . I have omitted the main road into Sagres which has more shops bars and restaurants plus the Intermarche supermarket and the petrol station . The reason for this is its easy to find ,its the main road as you come in from Lagos and secondly there is no pavement and I consider it dangerous to walk up .
      The Three Beaches are all attended by life guards during the summer and all attract swimmers and surfers (if surf). I have swum when the beach has been empty and unattended but only in calm/good conditions . There are fatalities on these beaches. Oh and there is the danger of rock fall so don't camp yourself under a dodgy looking cliff.!

MARTINHAL 

Christmas Day 

Sunrise

Martinhal Beach 

You won't always find it this quiet, the 5 star Martinhal resort is now finished ( just visible in this picture ) so there are a few things going on . It is popular for windsurfing , has 2 beach bars, but even still I have never seen it crowded . Its lovely for a morning walk as the sun rises over the sea . The area is spoilt for beaches so I don't have a favorite.To get there if we take Restaurant Carlos (tour 1) as a starting point walk down towards the port and at the sharp right hand bend at the bottom of the road cut straight through the grounds of the Baleeira Hotel ( big white one )past reception then turn right onto the dirt road that leads down to the beach 

THE THREE BEACHES NO2 MARETA (TOUR 2)

MARETA

Mareta on a stormy day in October

No Swimming

Another deserted beach 

So from Restaurant Carlos head up the street away from the Port and when you see the Dromedario bar on the right take the road opposite turning left . Go down the hill then turn right then the first left . You can see the beach now and there are a couple of ways down . There are a few restaurants around here with beautiful sea views but that comes at a price . I like the Last Chance Saloon for a beer . This beach is popular with good swimming and if windy is the most sheltered . There are toilets opposite the Dromedario. 

THE THREE BEACHES NO3 TONEL (TOUR 2)

TONEL

sunset 

Perhaps my favourite , no no I don't have favourites . Well my favourite as the sun sets then . The sun goes down over the sea and it attracts a lot of attention. Popular with surfers it is truly dramatic in big seas as the waves crash over the rock a few meters out . It has a beach bar selling drinks and snacks in the summer but can be a wild place in winter.From Restaurant Carlos head up the road same way as Mareta but keep going . At the roundabout at the top which is a complicated little junction follow the road more a less straight on (dogs leg) past the Columbus pizza restaurant on your right . This leads to another roundabout where you turn left to the Fortaleza . After a few meters take the road on the right down to Tonel beach . The second roundabout we will call the Fortaleza roundabout and use this as another reference point .

THE SIGHTS FORTALEZA NO 1 (TOUR 3)

A view I have heard expressed of Sagres is that it is windy and there is nothing much there . I suppose you could call it the Lands End  ( fim das terras )of  Europe. The "nothing there" opinion was that of a Portuguese lady  who lived in Lagos, I suppose its up to everyone to make their own mind up. Maybe its a love it or hate it type of place . Anyway there are a few things to see .

FORTALEZA

It is central and easy to find . If you make your way to the Fortaleza roundabout see ( THE THREE BEACHES NO3 TONEL  (TOUR 2) you will see it. There is loads of history connected with the Fortaleza and it may be worth looking it up before a visit . The entrance fee is inexpensive a couple of euro's I think and it is free some days. Again some people find it not too interesting , but the walk round is good enough for me and I have visited on numerous occasions . It is worth a visit just to watch the fishermen perched on the cliff edge. They do fall off !! If you visit when the sea is rough the views and coastline are spectacular.

View from the Fortaleza

Go in here , even if blocked off.

fishermen call it a day 

inside the Fortaleza

  

THE SIGHTS LIGHTHOUSE NO 2 (TOUR 3 FULL DAY)

THE LIGHTHOUSE 

The Lighthouse (Farol) is about 6 km from Sagres . It is easy to find from the Fortaleza roundabout head straight on out of town past the Artesenato shop on the right . With all the fresh air available in Sagres I always think its a shame to use a car if you don't have to . You can walk but it's not the most interesting walk available and I never like being able to see all the way I have to walk in the distance , it always looks further than it is.

That's a long way !

 There is a bus its leaves Sagres main street at 11.15 and 14.25 and returns at 12.00 and 15.03 Monday to Friday . Catching the bus there and walking back is an option but I think the best way to go is make a day of it and go by bike . For information on the buses there is a Tourist Office on the main street on the opposite side of the Dromadario Bar up towards the square . There are plenty of bike hire places in this area also . You need to pick a clear day preferably when the wind is not howling. Don't forget water and a sandwich if you don't want to use the cafe's and restaurants . A towel and swimming costume may be useful and definitely sun creme . So starting at the Forteleza roundabout head out of town past the Artesenato . On the left hand side of the road there is a cycle path I always use it but a lot of people don't seem to realize its for bikes. You don't get cars racing past you and you are facing oncoming traffic. The first place you come to is Beliche Beach so if you fancy a bit of sunbathing or a swim this is the place . Leaving Beliche there is a tight bend and you need to use the correct side of the road for a few hundred mtrs . Not too much further on is Forte Beliche which is worth a stop . You will have to look up any history but there is a path that leads down to the sea if you are feeling energetic .

Path 

Carrying on from Forte Beliche on the right is another Artesenato and Restaurant S. Vicente . If it is open wander into the restaurant for a look not to eat . I won't tell you why. Next stop is the lighthouse , spectacular views on a clear day . There is a museum and gift shop and other tourist attractions . It gets busy but no trouble parking on a bike . People come for the sunset but you probably need to leave before it goes dark . The sunset on Tonel Beach is better anyway . Thew that was along day!

Tonel 

THE SIGHTS NICE WALK PLUS A BIT OF BIRD WATCHING NO 3 (TOUR 3)

 NICE EASY WALK ANY TIME OF DAY

The Track 

This walk starts at the roundabout that leads down to the port . This picture is taken from the Baleeira Hotel (near those steep steps) and since it was taken  new Hotel / Flats / Apartments are being built on the corner behind the bus stop. Anyway go straight on across the roundabout and follow the gravel road ( no cars ) which is marked out by large stones . Follow this round till you reach the walkway which leads to a viewing point . Great views from here of the coast line . Sagres is well known for bird watching and hosts a festival every year usually in October . This is a popular spot for the twitchers  .

Walkway

Return on the walkway and carry on round the path . You will come out at the Pousada do Infante and following the road you can turn left to Mareta beach or straight on to Restaurante Carlos . A short walk but one I do frequently. It was only created in 2015 .